South Africa

view from the magnificent Kirstenbosch botanical gardens

(for more pictures go here)

If you have, the time, money and ability to get your ass on a plane (or even two of these), DO A TRIP LIKE THIS NOW!!!!!!!!!!!

Nov 24-Dec 9th 2006

I had originally planned to go to cape town in september with BA through heathrow, but after a full day of negotiating through the airports of two different countries, I was refused admission onto the flight as I was unaccompanied. Well my confidence wazs totally shot after this episode, and its not a nice feeling to think that you might not be in a position to board a plane and travel again.

The BA manager kindly let me phone Alfie of Epic Enabled tours in south africa, to bring them up to speed with the latest developements, and to let them know that there would be no reason for them to be at cape town airport at 7 am the next morning. I was given a bus and hotel room voucher and told to be back at the airport the next morning at eight. I was in deep shock, but also angry at myself, for all the time spent attending to the details of the trip, as opposed to a realistic evaluation of my physical condition. Was it wise for me to try and go to cape town via heathrow on my own, and what about using the loo?

I don't believe all things happen for a reason, but I do believe in making the best out of the circumstances of any given situation. So, this crushing scenario certainly caused me to stop rethink and re-evaluate. Went back to work on the tuesday, and the long struggle to get a refund for my flight tickets began. I was also left very embittered by my experiences with the travel insurance company. I thought I had a very good case, all my luggage had been taken off my plane, but put onto another one, and wound up in cape town anyway. I now fully realise that insurance companies do not make money, by paying out too often. So, for broken or lost items in my luggage which made it back to me a week later I got ZERO.

I think it speaks volumes of our society that upon hearing of my case, so many people told me to sue. I honestly don't knw how so many people have just the plain energy to do that, and to gather all the detaails required. I just wanted to salvage as much of my money as possible and plan for something else.I have no anger for BA, but I do certainly think that they should put their hands up,and clearly say that because,as I was told, of numerous lawsuits, that they will offer no assistance whatsoever to any wheelchair using passenger travelling unaccompanied. That would have saved me a lot of hassle, but hopefully I'll be able to get this message out through this website.

I don't want to go into the saga of trying to get my money back, because thankfully now it is all in the past, but suffice it to say, it was an unbelievable and draining nightmare, which was only resolved by threat of legal action.You get to see the real side of people, when something goes wrong, and you want your money back. Everyone is all smiles and cheerful voiced, when they are taking down your credit card details.

Around the middle of october in work, a fax came through with Slatetry Travel's summer sale, with direct flights from dublin to cape town. Long story short, I snagged a return flight for just over 600 euro, which was an immediate saving of 420 euro on the BA flight, so I was back in business.The trip was back on, it was very easy to restart eveything on the south african side, but I was ptrified about the flight, and dreading any repeat performance, sent faxes and medical certs to Slattery's until I received written and verbal confirmation, that the airline were fully aware that I was coming and of my situation. The local nurse familiarised me with a catheter, as I didn't want to take any chance, and so the toilet would not be an issue.

Cape point, meeting of indian & atlantic oceans

I really wanted to organise the trip as soon as possible. Especially in my situation, I cannot afford to put anything on the long finger.I was originally told that maybe I could hookup with a group leaving from heathrow in may 07, but honestly that seemed like an eternity away, and who knows what sort of physical condition I'll be in then!

As Friday nov 24th approached, I was petrified of course, but I also knew so many people were sending me good vibes for a great trip. I had visions of being turfed off, but at least I would be in my own country, my mobile would work, and family members would be nearby.Yes, there are definate advantages to flying direct. Also, the hassle assolciated with having to get a connecting flight, and having to have your chair and luggagemoved is eliminated. I was bringing my new super dooper chair, which took me a year and a half to get,and is the cost of a good used car. From the moment we arrived at the airport (at 5am), I knew things were going to work out this time.I sailed throuh the security checkpoint, and chatted with some of the other passengers. What a great time of the year it is to be getting away. It was freexing as usual in dublin. I can't say I relaxed until we were actually airborne!

I didn't realise that on charter planes, if you want to watch a movie, or whatever music is on that you have to pay for the earphones. I was too cheap, and reslolved to read my book. BIG MISTAKE! You can't read or chat for twelve hours, and the seat I was in was adjacent to the kitchen, so I couldn't even recline the seat, so having a nap was out ! It pissed me off when guys at the back, came up to their friends beside me and told them if they wanted a snooze, they should go down to the back, where everyone had a row to themselves. Yes, the plane was not half full!

By the time we had landed in and cleared all the checkpoints in capetown, it was nearly 11pm. Good old Alfie was ready and waiting to bring me back to their house in fish hoek. It was the best thing to stay with a family, not only did it work out much haper, but for me it meant there was always somebody around and there was a lovely family atmosphere. If I wanted to use the net, I just popped into their office, or watched tv on the big screen one in the sitting room. Little joshua was evicted from his room for my two weeks, and I quickly made it unrecognisable with all my clutter.

Quickly I knew that an assistant for help showering and dressing would be essential. Kurt proved to be the best money that I spent there. He also provided great companionship, and being a native helped me avoid the tourist pitfalls.The itinerary was tailor made, and alfie regularly came to me with recommendations and tips. For example, there was a full day marked for a visit to three winefarms in stellenbosch, but alfie said that given the fact that I am not a winedrinker, that this would be a waste of time. So we spent half the dau at the stunning spier winefarm and the rest shopping. I had vowed that given the fact that it had taken me so long to get here, that I was not going to pennypinch or go home with any retail regrets, so if I liked something I got it!(Given this gung ho attitude towards shopping, and my weakness for curios of all kinds, its no surprise that I was 4 times overweight at the luggage check in on the return leg).

Female ostrich at the cape of good hope

I said to alfie several times that it just isn't fair, that they have all this stunning scenary plus beach weather right on their doorstep. I know ireland can be similarly fantastic, but who in their right mind wants to be out in the pissing rain! It was truly fantastic to come from winter weather, to sitting in tshirt and shorts having a drink, and reading a book under cloudless skies. The warm weather really agrees with me, my muscles relax, and having such a fantastic assistant it was truly a holiday, without even a hint of ordeal.

Coming from rip off ireland, I was stunned by the cheapness of eating out. A party of five of us went to a fantastic italian restaurant in muizenberg, starters, drinks, dessert, main course, the lot came to just over 53 euro. And this is top notch food, jesus, I ate like a pig for my two weeks! I was also very glad to see how well the transition seems to be going in south africa. My coloured assistant was treated with he same respect as myself. Three years ago in johannesburg, my one abiding memory is of a very noticeable separation based on colour. In restaurants whites would be at a table, and I felt they talked down to those who were black. I anticipated this degree of snobbery in cape town, especially as I had been told before I went, that the western cape was the most european part of south africa, with whites outnumbering blacks 5:1.

There is still definately a way to go though. Tne shanty towns are there but not in your face. What is very much in your face is the level of luxury, opulence and excess enjoyed by so many. Some of the houses were truly palatial, but as I stayed in a well known retirement resort, there were in a lot of cases, probably two or even one person rattling around in them. They seem to be doing a good job with crime, I felt absolutely safe and had never had an unsafe feeling. Granted I had an assisstant who could withdraw my money from the atm, and could pay for whatever I bought, rather than having me with my clumsy hands, broadcasting the contents of my wallet, as would normally be the case.

As it was a private tour, the schedule could be readjusted according to whether I was tired or interested in doing a particular thing. It was completely tailored. The first week, most of the big trips were done,and then alfie had to leave to do two more tours in kruger. So, then next week had to be quieter,but we stilll managed to fit in great halfn day trips to the world of birds, shopping at the waterfront and the awe inspiring kirstenbosch botanical gardens, ( I brought home heaps of seed, and really hope they will sprout next summer) where I was just dumbstruck by the fabulous colours!

I never knew south africa was famous for its wool, which comes from the eastern cape. I spent a fortune on cardigans, scarves, sheepskin boots and slippers, and was undoubtedly the best prepared for the winter weather we would soon return to. The markets and shops were nowhere near as cheap as joberg, but I think I did ok. I despise with a passion, tourist crap, the stuff you buy as proof that you were there, but who will in all likelihood never have any practical use once you get home, and the holiday turns into a memory.

So, I'm back home to winter wind and rain, but all the effort to get there was definately worth it! 2 precious weeks!

The following is an account of my first trip to johannesburg 3 years ago;

I think any sort of world travel is invaluable, and such an education in its own right. To step out of your own little routine, and see the bigger picture, can only be enlightening on so many different levels. 2 years ago I came across this website run by a husband and wife team, who organised accessible safari's in south Africa.

I would never have imagined a trip like that, and as I was well and truly tired of being the one who received postcards from friends in such far flung places as Sydney, Victoria falls, china etc, I decided I would make the effort to go. This was my first major trip. When a wheelchair becomes part of your life, the world and the options open to you tend to narrow considerably. Everything has to be viewed in terms of accessibility and other details which often make a trip overwhelming.

For example, I am dying to go to the u.s, and even though now I have a job and money, I start factoring in transfers, how long the flight will be, what about the loo, when I get to the destination, steps, will I be spending all my money on taxi's to get around, safety, kerbs…..To be honest , it all inevitably adds up to the break not being a holiday and more of a survival course.

With Epic Enabled, all that worry is completely taken away. In the lead up to the trip, I was TERRIFIED about the 9 hour flight especially as I am an insulin dependant diabetic as well. It started off quite shakily, as first I had to go to London heathrow. The flight from Dublin was late, and as I had only half an hour to traverse heathrow to get to terminal 1, the first thing I heard when I touched down was "he's not going to make it". The only thing that saved me was the fact that my luggage in dublin had been designated straight through to Johannesburg. If I had to collect my luggage and try to transfer them again onto the Johannesburg bound flight, I would not have made it.

Luckily in this age of security, a flight will not take off with luggage when the owner of that luggage is not present. With a mixture of relief, a red face, excitement and hope that the rest of the trip would not contain anymore worrisome surprises, I was placed in my seat at the back near the loo. I do not handle stress of any sort well. Its really something I need to work on, there really is no point getting worked up about something that will soon be a memory.

Thankfully I was seated beside a very nice English woman and thanks also to a little creative manipulation with my insulin, I only needed the toilet once. I won't beat around the bush here, as there was not enough room to get in, it was literally point and shoot. A no 2 would be out of the question and I'd imagine it would be very awkward for girls. The last couple of years living with FA has put me in some scenarios I never could have imagined dealing with years ago, and so as a result I tend to have very few scruples left. On reflection its not a bad thing, we tend to waste too much time worryinabout how we look to others, and in the process blow it all out of proportion. How do we know, or why should we care, what another supposedly thinks of us?

I think I was too nervous to get much sleep and divided my time between the online movie, chatting with Carol beside me and just being lost in thoughts about what the next 10 days held in store.At least I had made my flight and was actually en route to johannesburg.When we finally did touch down it was 9.10am, and it was a nice bright morning. The guy pushing me through the terminal made me feel very uneasy by asking me for money. I didnt know what to say. He had an airport job, so he could'nt be that badly off. I was very relieved as just in the middle of that awkward silence, Alfie & Sabine came up to me.

I changed some dollars ( I was told to bring dollars which in retrospect was a mistake, as the euro exchange rate against the rand is stronger) and we made our way in the amazingingly engineered vehicle (look in the gallery)the short distance to our compound. One of the immediate things that struck me was how despite being at the edge almost of another continent, how many similarities there were. English was spoken everywhere, people drove on the left and there were white people everywhere. The compound where we were staying actually had an on site motel. This place was fantastic, very plush, weeping willows on the grounds and dirt cheap. That was to be a recurring theme in south africa, we were living like kings for nothing, and coming from rip off ireland that was almost shocking to me.

Johannesburg is not a safe city at all. Indeed towards the end of the trip, the office staff could not get in, as the road outside had been cordoned off after a shootout during which eight were shot trying to hijack a security van. Inside I had a great nights sleep. I had a day on my own before the other two members in the group were to arrive from england, so I decided to go to the waterfront shopping area. I thought I had died and gone to heaven! It was a market area more or less. One of the shops there (see the gallery) sold the most amazing 3D brass ornaments. The tribal scene with the 3D elephants and the brass clock are among my most prized possessions. They almost light up when the sun hits them, and are priceless momentos to me, despite the effort involved in bringing them home.

I remember having lunch with Alfie & Sabine out on a restaurant terrace with a lot of workers toiling away revamping the area. Alfie told me that they were more than likely working for approx $1 a day. Time and time again during my stay, this was to be a recurring theme that will stay with you long after you have packed your bags and left. Its almost two years later now, and I am disgusted with myself for having clothes and stuff that I have barely used (if at all). When I get my act together I am going to sell them all on ebay. I view shopping now in a different light.You can only wear one item at a time so there's something wrong if you have a room covered in unused or barely used clothes as well as, in my case figurines, candles, buddhas, native american works etc. I think I have collected so much bits n bobs as a way of compensating myself for never having been to their country of origin.

Anyway, when Roger and Marie had arrived and settled in, we began our drive to Kruger. There was of course LOTS of travelling in the "tank" involved. Usually we'd be up and driving from 7am. It was a little difficult to register sometimes that you are near the end of a different continent, when there were so many familiarities around. Sometimes we'd stop for something to eat and the loo, and there would be little red haired childen running around with everyone speaking english and the cars mbeing driven on the left. However the apartheid legacy is always just below the surface. Except in one or two cases, all the staff wherever we went were black and the clientele white. We were eating and drinking like kings throughout the stay, for next to nothing, and thankfully myself, Roger & Marie gelled well from the very beginning, which does make all the difference. Plenty of jokes and stories definately help when you are strapped in place in the truck for hours. I choose to stay in my chair as my trunk muscles now are very weak, and it would be inviting an injury if I didn't.

Our first stop and where we were to spend a couple of days was Tschukudu game park, and that stay there embodied many of the reasons I had come to South Africa in the first place. I really dislike zoo's, I know they serve a function, but I always feel sorry for the animals. They are just caged objects to be gawked at. It is another experience entirely to be a humble spectator on the animals territory. It really is something else to be in bed and to hear the non stop animal noised, be it of birds, lions, baboons or who knows. It certainly wasn't an uneasy feeling, for me they were sounds I personally thought I'd never hear.It was only later that I found out how close we were to sun city, the south african version of las vegas. But in retrospect maybe it was better that it wasn't on the agenda. This trip really was all about the animals. Its very educational and also very animal welfare motivating, because once you see the majesty of these places, and the way these animals have adapted, survived and thrived in these places, long before man entered the picture, you really are made aware of the value of preservation. I have to admit I am an animal lover. There is something very pure and just in their lives. To think that an enormous majestic elephant can be eradicated by one cowardly bullet makes me fume.

The picture of me with the cheetah was amazing. We had been told about this hand reared cheetah named savannagh, whose mother had rejected her at birth. They were trying to re acclimatise her to the wild and to teach her how to survive on her own. To this end she would go on hunts, and not be seen in the camp for 2 or 3 days, so it was going to be pure chance whether we got to see her at all.We had boarded the bus and were ready to leave, when one of the reserve workers hurried out to tell us that savannah had returned. To be beside this cheetah was indescribable, to hear her very loud and contented purrs. Because she had been hand reared, she had absolutely no fear of humans, and was a curious mix of domestic pet and powerful wild animal.It was a definate highlight for me an

d thankfully the pictures captured the rare and great occasion.

There were so many special moments that just engrave themselves in your memory, like picking up a feather from a wild bird, and just the smells and colours. Passing by miles and miles of orange grove and the majesty of Pilgrim's Rest and God's window make you understand why they say that if you only visit one country in your lifetime, make it south africa. I could have happily spent forever browsing through the markets, to the point where I was beginning to make myself unpopular with the other two in the group. We would be on a tight schedule, alfie would need a quick pit stop, and the hawkers would seize the opportunity to come up selling their goods and I just HAD to indulge. The state of me coming home with clocks, books, everything and anything to do with elephants, ostrich eggs, amazingly engraved bowls,keyrings, t shirts and candles was comical I'm sure.

I never would have thought that I'd lose appreciation of the sight of animals in the wild, but you do become blase. After the novelty wears off its literally oh there's another elephant, giraffe, kudu etc. A word of caution while I remember, if possible do not bring a new wheelchair with you. Its an unforgiving schedule and terrain. I had gotten a new chair the week before I went, but luckily I brought the older one which they could still fold down and store onboard. It actually endured well out there ( the spokes went, but alfie could fix them), but when I arrived back in dublin, I was told my chair was still in london. I had anticipated something like this, so it was good to have not parted with my chair, although to give credit where its due they had my old chair couriered down before midnight of the same day.

I really regret not going on to cape town, but that would have entailed another flight change and so I left it. Now almost two years and a marked physical deterioration later, I honestly am not sure if I'd be able for that trip. So to anyone reading this, who is in two minds about going, I would say "seize the opportunity, because you dont know whats around the corner". It is very empowering and life changing in a lot of ways. I used to buy clothes and so much knick knacks that I could barely turn in my bedroom, and I am ashamed to say that I have clothes which I have never worn or worn at the most once or twice. Its likv I was buying in to the spend spend materialistic culture. Without getting preachy, how many clothes can you wear at any one time, and when you see grown men toiling away for a dollar a day, of course your values and priorities change. I know mine have!

A link to a webpage about other accessible travel. I have a week off work at the end of may, coinciding with joe's respite holiday. So I've got to go somewhere for a week. I don't want to completely break the bank, so its really helpful to come across webpages like the one above. A holiday sounds like the perfect antidote to isolation and the depression of living in a cold wheelchair UNfriendly country.

The experiences and insight, gleaned from a good holiday are invaluable.Since that trip, I found anothere tour group on the net, which offered wheelchair accessible tour of argentina and chile. It was proving to be a trip, which would dwarf, in terms of effort and energy, the south african trip. To even begin the tour in Buenos Aires, I would first have to go to munich, and from there a 14 hour onward flight to BA.

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